Cape Breton Places & Foods

Sometime ago I had to out of town in connection with programs to be broadcast ans as I found myself in the Annapolis Valley, I decided I would go and see the De Mont Habitation, near Granville Ferry, which was rebuilt just previous to the outbreak of the war.

When I arrived at Bridgetown I kept straight on, instead of turning to the left, and very shortly after passing through Belle Isle, I came to Granville Ferry and the bridge that heads over to Annapolis.

I then continued straight ahead for about seven miles to my goal, the Habitation, which I propose to tell you about, especially as I found that very few Halifax names on the register. The excellent roads we have on the main highways in Nova Scotia, should be left once in a while if one is to see the many historic and interesting places in our own Province. A visit to the Habitation should be made by every Nova Scotian and particularly school children, as it would make the study of our History, that much more interesting.

We in Halifax are rather prone to look back on 1749 as the dawn of history. We have many things of historic significance within the shadow of the venerable old town clock, or not very far afield, but we have to realize, that is, if we want to be fair, that there are many places on this continent that pre-date our own little sphere.

For instance, we have in this province this site of the first permanent habitation of the white man north of the Gulf of Mexico, but even today, with all the publicity that has been given to this restoration of this habitation at Granville, I am amazed at the number of our own people that have a complete lack of knowledge about the site or the wonderful restoration that has taken place.

I ask you, radio-listener. Today, how many of you have visited the restored habitation?

I’m rather ashamed that I have to estimate that a very small percentage of one percent has ever been there, yet there is a mecca worthy of the attention of every person on this continent.

Do you realize that in 1605-yes, I said, 1605 De Monts and Champlain arrived in Annapolis Basin and named it Port Royal?

The first permanent abode was not at the Annapolis Royal we know today, but some seven miles down the other side of the water, and there in 1605 was built the French fort, or habitation that was first built by white man on the Northern side of the Gulf of Mexico.

Before we go into the restoration of the habitation, let us consult the booklet of the Provincial Government, titled “Historic Nova Scotia” for a few more facts that will better prepare us for a visit to the place itself…It records that “During the first winter six settlers died, and the reason recorded was that they overtaxed themselves through grinding corn by hand. The Indians could not be induced to assist in such labour….”

It was 1606 that Lescarbot arrived from France amongst additional settlers… and we have every reason to give thanks for his arrival. It was largely due to the willingness of this man to set down facts, that we have such a complete picture of early life in this Province of ours. Let’s see what we can find out about Marc Lescarbot, for he is one who has left as strong an imprint on our earlier annals as the more venturesome explorers. Marc Lescarbots was born in Vervins, France., and, as we have said, joined the Port Royal colony in 1606, his Talents as Lawyer, Poet and historian making him the life of the place. He taught the colonists agriculture, the Indians Christianity, followed the chase and studied the nature of the country. In between, he composed and staged a play, Neptune’s Theatre, said to be the first fruit of literature in North America. It is recalled that on his return to France he wrote a monumental history of New France, and it is said that he performed many public services and died full of years and honours in his native land.

But it seems unfair to deal with Lescarbot at such length, and ignore the many others whose names were associated with the early days of this very important colonization venture. Names such as De Monts himself, Champlain, Pontgrave, a member also of the original De Mont’s expedition, that very alluring name of Poutrincourt, Champdore, a member of Champlain’s order of Good Cheer, Louis Hebert, the apothecary of De Monts expedition…yes, and others who braved the rigors of ocean passage, which we can hardly realize today, and the increasing dangers after landing on a new shore.

But that is all history, and for the majority of you, I imagine the details are stored in the back of the mind from the days when you sat in either city or town school, or in the little re school house,[ or shall we say the whitewashed one] and heard it retold by your teacher.

The main thing to be impressed on you at the present time is that what is now known as Granville, on the western side of the Annapolis Basin, there is to be found one of the most unusual structures to be encountered anywhere on this continent.

It is a restoration of the original De Mont’s habitation, so completely true to form that it is breath taking. I know that 90 percent of my listeners will drive up to it in shiny modern cars and park in the lot that is provided, that will eventually constitute a memorial park. But if you want a word of advice, which I am afraid you will not heed, you will leave your car a quarter of a mile, or even less, up the road, and then afoot, slowly approach the habitation.

To drive up at the swish of modern speed is to destroy the illusion. Rather it is more in keeping to approach leisurely on foot. It will be truly breath taking when you get your first view. True, time has to a small degree only succeeded to efface the traces of newness from the masonry, but as to the timbers, already bathed by the fog so often down old Fundy, and the winter’s snow and summer’s heat, the structure might well have been there centuries.

If ever there was a place where there is need for the caution not to dismiss it with a visit of ten or fifteen minutes, and then speed away, it is this one. That is, if you are interested in gaining the full savour of that which is about you. Probably few can feel they could spare the time, but one of the best times to wander about its walls, even if the gate is locked, is on a foggy evening. You can sit on the grass, with back against the log stockade, and peer out over the Bay, with eyes in the direction of Goat Island. You can hope, alas, in imagination only, to see the boats returning once more from France, to receive an accounting from that true guardian left for several years, the Indian Chief Membertou, one who was allowed to sit with the white men at the festival times within, as the Order of Good Cheer held its convivial gatherings.. Stay there until darkness falls, smoke a bit if you will, but be careful that no sparks endanger this glorious shrine of history. Then come back early, say, a bit after 8 a.m., and give each part of the structure your undivided attention, before the daily flow of tourists arrives.

What will you see?-a palisaded fort, which has its own blacksmith’s shop and armouries place, its bake shop, its living quarters, its chapels, its trading post for exchanging baubles with the Indians for furs they have trapped, its storehouses, its wine cellars [but no wine there now, unfortunately], and even the original well, in the centre of the yard, which has been excavated again. You will see the timbers hown out of logs, by skilled Annapolis Valley men, who still survive today, and held together with pins, not spikes. You will find hand-wrought nails, just as those made by the early arrivals from France. You will find iron work, the product of nearby forges of this age, notably that of Arthur Eaton, Granville Ferry. And made to look as if they have been allowed to come down to us through the centuries.

More important you will be able to sit in the hall which, as far as possible, is an exact duplicate of that in which the happy hours were spent by the Order of Good Cheer. Oh, those early days1 You will see the hospitals, on a second floor, where the sick and wounded were placed in wooden cubicles, close to the chimneys, for warmth, and with sliding doors, with grilled windows, where to be placed would seemingly mean certain death from lack of air, if not from wounds inflicted by the enemy. The habitation is only sketchily furnished, that in the hall of Good Cheer by interested friends in the States, France was to have supplied much of the fittings, but the war intervened.

The construction itself, a Federal undertaking, was a painstaking effort. The ground was sifted for quite a depth, and there the excavations revealed the places where fireplaces existed, where the wine cellar was dug. All of this tallied with the original drawing of the habitation, and measurements left in the documents. Under the skilled guidance of Architect Harris of Ottawa, all of this was carefully followed. A kiln was erected on the site during the restoration, and thousands of bricks baked from native clay, as it was done at the start of the 17th century, to give complete authenticity. The glass in the windows was specially made to be in keeping of those times. Many are covered with parchment alone, to let in the light, and in this new structure, this, in two years, has been so effective, that only one has been replaced.

Much of your pleasure of a visit to the habitation will be from your association with Albert Parker, caretaker, who loves the whole place. He lives just across the road, and has done so for many years, and is a native of the section. He went to sea early, but returned to these parts. He heard the tales of the habitation that once stood there from his boyhood days. When the restoration took place he was one of the principals selected to aid. He selected many of the timbers and stones that went into its building, traveling miles through the woods to get just the right articles. No better choice could have been made than this quiet mannered, but this enthusiastic man. He will unquestionably play a major role to making the habitation better known in all parts of this continent.

Already thousands have visited the habitation. Their remarks, listed in the register kept there will show in convincing manner their true appreciation of what the habitation means: That it was a venture truly worthwhile. In the register remarks column, I wrote, “I will tell my friends of the Old Town Clock about this”.

But in 15 minutes it is impossible to give a comprehensive picture of the wonders to be found there. May I suggest that when the opportunity exists, you visit this almost hallowed ground at Granville, Nova Scotia . All Service men from Upper Canada or elsewhere should go and see where history began in Canada. They will find it particularly interesting, and can imagine how the soldiers and sailors of those days carried on, without the modern departmental corps to rush up their every need by motor truck. I think they’ll agree it was tough soldiering in those days.-No radio to broadcast messages home every week, or to tell how their comrades were making out, on the other side of the world.

Be you, Soldier, Sailor, Airman, or Civilian you’ll find plenty of interest at the habitation of Granville, where history began in North America.